The engine makes very low vacuum at idle. No power at the programmer and no fuel pump running. From here...the cycle continues and I am Tags: ... and it had an off idle stumble so bad the engine would backfire though the carb and die If I didn't slowly ease into the throttle. I set it exactly like the instructions said and my iac is not only all over the place but when I finally did get it to the 2-10 range it's highlighted in red. Please check your process again and see if you can see very specifically what is not working correctly. That is likely just confusing the issue.Instead, choose whichever setup most resembles your camshaft and stick with that. Tuning > Advanced > Adv Idle > IAC Startup I notice at 2-3% tps the iac is 18-25% and it stumbles, when the iac gets to my hold position of 30 it stops. If i set the idle to 750, the only way i can get it there is to turn the idle screw all the way out but then its at 0 iac. If the IAC number is increased during this high idle, review the points about high idle from tuning issues. check, I guess after reading everyone saying how great the system is after First, recognize that the IAC and the TPS are not inter-related in any way. Two things to keep in mind as you do that. So try changing your IAC hold value slightly:Tuning : Advanced : Adv. Settings: Hyperspark ignition setting, 57.5* reference angle, clear cap used to … What I would recommend is getting somewhere that you can spend a significant amount of time doing starts. The jack-rabbit start can usually be minimized by adjusting the throttle linkage. Good Has a good size camshaft can’t find any vacuum leaks. Took it for a lap around the block and came back. When I put it in park the idle RPM was 2100-2200 each time. No timing control, coil negative ignition type. If it is then something is commanding the ECU to open the IAC. I did notice that when I thought I had it set That's what you're seeing. Trademarks belong to their respective owners. I recently install a sniper efi. If you go too low then it may stumble or even stall when coming off of throttle. Sorry for all the questions, new to the efi world. I'm happy to walk you through what is required. They are the only way to go in my mind. The Fuel Base map is perfect, the car works well, runs well, running through the streets, the car is great. This is a great time to visually inspect the overall Sniper EFI install. I'm running a 408 sbc. is train the system or there is actually something wrong.I do love the system at The noise is definitely coming OUT of the throttle body. If idle drops below 800 it won’t come back it’ll chug around 300 rpm for a few seconds then die. Though it started and ran good, it was dumping fuel and would not lean out to AFR set points. Not to bandstand here but this is the point when where you bought your system is so important. Between the kick down and the return springs on the throttle body the pedal is so hard to push it's pretty much a jack rabbit start every time from stop, it's almost undrivable, any suggestions on what I could do?thanks for help, I've tried both Holley's tech lines for close to 2 hours with no answer! Purists will sniff that these are not accurate to the tenth of a PSI. Just installed a Sniper EFI using 4-wire configuration (standard coil operation). When I turn the key on I can hear it prime, but I don't think im getting enough fuel. I decided to buy from EFI System Pro hoping for better customer service than, say, Summit or wherever else. 1. Turn the idle speed screw on the primaries in about 2-3 turns after it makes contact with the linkage and starts opening the primary throttle blades. School's out for spring break this week though so I'm covering for employees on vacation. Seems to behave more better now. After 50 on the throttle position I'm not sure if the whistle goes away or you just can't here it anymore. I also raised idle at Park a bit with the idle screw. Do I need to try taping up the IAC port and setting the idle off the idle screw? I've increased the IAC rampdown time to 8 seconds to try to combat this, but wondering if it will correct itself over time or if I need to possibly replace this TP sensor. Camshaft is M-6250-B303 .480 lift intake & exhaust, duration at .050 is 224 degrees for intake & exhaust. Found out that it was due to rfi/emi. Turned it off and on again. !I called Holley today, and before I could even described the symptoms the The car cruises fine, and if I was to keep idle at 2000rpm the issue won’t happen, it’s only when the car tries to ramp down to idle position.Thank you for your help, any advice would be appreciated.Thank you,Eric, Whenever we see the AFR go to "Heating" that is an indication that the ECU has been reset. lower until I turn down the set screw. I have quadruple checked my wiring and am certain it's correct. Ok, we have enough Sniper systems out there that I thought it would be a good idea to create a posting on challenges that might arise during installation. Find a lower price anywhere and we'll beat it by 5%! Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? Once you so this, and after you have your CAN-to-USB harness attached to your laptop with the Sniper software, you can see precisely the cells where the system is operating when the bog occurs. Intake has been on and off 3 times no change. After a stall the car will restart but will be in a high idle. It's going to be really difficult to nail down the problem with the several simultaneous changes that you've made. Yes it is controlling the timing and I had issues at first and it controlled the idle just fine. If they are closed, check the primaries. Your issues are likely related to one of these two things. You can adjust this number up or down but there is really no need to change it unless the car is stalling.The sucking sound is just what happens when the Sniper EFI System is paired with certain intake manifolds. It starts cold fine, its just when its hot. If it does then you can put on a heavier spring so the advance doesn't come in as fast, or use a lighter weight. That changes almost instantly as the engine revs.Since the learning algorithm requires some time exposure to a certain condition to make larger changes, that half-second makes only the smallest impact. Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issues. close to idle with the IAC between 2% & 12%. In the wizard I set my Idle to 500RPM but it never got slower than 800RPM, if I run the wizard again and lower to 400 RPM then it never gets lower than 700RPM.After reading about the Idle Speed curver I checked its settings and found that the curve was 300rpm faster at every point over the temp range no matter what temp I had, I adjusted the curve to match what I put in on the wizard and now the RPM is correct, I'd say you have a bug in the wizard.Idle Speed > Idle Speed Curve: Here is where the lack of coolant temperature is going to affect you. I have an adapter on the manifold for squarebore to spreadbore and then a phenolic spacer. It appears that I could now use the dongle and a laptop to custom tune for idle issues if needed. Thank you very much. But if you can datalog the bog you can know much more precisely what is happening. I've changed all the I know its not flooded because I can pour a little gas in the throttle body and play with the accelerator and it will start and run fine. Price Point: $, Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. Be aware that there is a spring behind there and a diaphragm that you don't want to tear. Why is this? Let's start by not assuming anything. Thanks for any info./insight you can provide, Mark. Tps is saying 26% when it at idle. Thanks in advance for any advice. Also what would you say a desired idle should be for a 3 speed automatic ford? Your closed loop compensation is adding a full 50% fuel. Good luck! I hold my foot steady in place it does this in 5 second cycles and if i let go of Its rare that you find someone that genuinely wants to help and see something work good, the information I have received from this page and Chris himself is top notch.1969 Dart GT 340 with a Holley Sniper, I purchased the Holley sniper from jegs wish I knew you sold them put on my truck got the IAC set haven't checked the -40 idle setting yet my problem is my headers are glowing red called Holley I think I got the worst person seemed to care less Afr is set at 12.8 for idle only thing I have changed I don't smell any fumes at idle someone said I could change the coolant temp enrichment but I don't know if it is rich or lean I figured since no smell it is lean any ideas would be appreciated thanks i have a fuel psi gauge reads 60 psi don't wanna melt my motor did not glow with a carburetor. Even 50 RPM can make a difference in how much impact the transition to Drive has on the idling engine's ability to stay at a fixed RPM.I would not recommend it in this situation but anytime a "kick" in idle speed is desired that is easily done by setting the kick value in Tuning > Advanced > Adv. :-). (It should be at or near 60 PSI at idle. Designed to deliver the signature Rochester Roar at Wide Open Throttle! One way is to very carefully watch the handheld monitor, and that may be adequate. Ok, so I'm stumped! It’s timed to 36 degrees. These are "transitional" cells, and you really have to make the effort to learn in these areas of the map. Greg Creamer bought his 1989 Ford Mustang LX brand new 31 years ago and has been racing just about ever since. Setup: 1965 Impala SS; ZZ6 Crate Engine, EFI Distributor. Once it steadies out, it idles perfect. That is a good thing.I don't have a specific target RPM but always encourage automatic transmission users to bias the idle just a tiny bit higher than what you might otherwise. You might have a bad O2 sensor, really bad exhaust leak or a problem with the ECU. )Take a look at your AFR during the starting process. We can not hit it at all, we hit the pedal abruptly, the engine gives a lot of excess fuel, the AFR gets super poor at first, the car stops, then the AFR gets super rich and the car runs until it cleans up. Running the vacuum advance and of course I time it disconnected. IAC looks good once it finally s fires. I am having an idle issue (other than that is absolutely perfect). New install, when in setup wizard TPS says 90 percent and I checked the linkage and butterflies. Glad to hear that you have timing control enabled, Gary. :-). Let If you have performed the adjustments above and still have RPM issues, it's time to look for clues. Drop the IAC parked position a bit at each temperature point and sort of back into the solution. Thanks Again for your help. I would start by removing the progressive linkage. I presume your idle speed table doesn't increase at 200 degrees? Ive tried setting the prime setting above 150 but it wont take, it always goes back to 150. The problem I believe this is creating is after I start vehicle (and its still in park), the IAC drops down to my hold percentage of 10% (since throttle % is not 0) before engine is warm and therefore causing the engine to stall out. The IAC going to 30 is normal. The Sniper Quick-Start Manual provides the following instructions for setting the idle. If you have a bellcrank in your throttle linkage, ensure that the linkage is not engaging the bellcrank at an angle greater than 45 degrees at either end of the throw. The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. :-DStill, I hate to leave someone hanging so I'll try to help. Therefore The iac will always be at 10% now, correct? Thanks for the information you have provided on this site. ULTRA4 is the run-what-you-bring, no-holds-barred class that started King of the Hammers. While this video is not meant for the Sniper EFI user it does provide a great overview of how your ethanol tuning adjustments must be made not only to the base fuel map but to the other configuration settings. Bolt-on carburetor style EFI for your classic car or truck. Hi Chris , greetings from Down Under (AUS) Just a note on the hi fuel pressure issue . The hold position is part of the response that keeps the car from dying when you come off the throttle. The link above includes the option to buy a -6 AN In most cases the IAC (Idle Air Control) circuit is the source of the whistle. By the way your site and your accessory products are nice. But there are several degrees of play there in which it should still work fine. This is definitely a ecu or injector issue. Bottom line is...my first one must have been faulty. If your fuel pressure is at or about 60 PSI then visually inspect the barrels of the throttle body while having someone key on the Sniper. The engine might run hot but if the timing is right it should keep that heat in the engine--which is where the damage turns up. Use the idle speed screw to set the idle at a comfortable warm-up speed. If you have any questions about the car/setup let me know. My problem is low idle. Was perfect idle iac reading 3. idle counts from 0. I have a dual tanks and took the sniper off and put the quadrajet back on and for 2 days never an issue. Just wondered if you've ever run across a system not powering up? The headache is the Acceleration Enrichment. So the issue I’m having is low idle. Plus, you can email that file to me and I can be of more help. I installed the Sniper on my 1978 Ford F-100 with a small block At some point you come upon problems that evade the easy answers and this is a good example. Don't make any changes more than about 10% and keep the same basic shape as the original (High/flat below 20 degrees, sloped downward up to 180 degress, and then flat again above that.) Any idea's? Only in the unlikely event that your engine simply won't run well enough to drive and self-learn should you consider tweaking anything inside of the first several hundred miles. I am extremely suspect of what you were told about the Sniper ECU monitoring fuel pressure, for several reasons. This increased idle speed is triggered by grounding the orange wire in the 10-pin I/O harness. With an assistant pressing the accelerator, you need to make sure that when the accelerator is pressed to WOT that the throttle blades are fully opened, and when accelerator is lifted the linkage is fully at rest against the idle speed screw. I've been having problems with my sniper efi just shutting off. I have probably 200 - 300 miles on this engine and it has always done this. But another thing to consider is adjusting your target A/F ratio. If the TPS is even just 2%, the IAC will go to the hold position (normally 30%) and will not change until the TPS goes back below 2%.If you create a datalog you will be better able to confirm if something is not working correctly. It wont fire up. Maybe give it a half-turn before you start it and then start and tweak. If you are idling at 2100 RPM (based on a default IAC Hold position of 30%) and your target idle speed is 900, then the ECU is not going to try to idle down. you have it set. After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. This is more of a bit of a reality check. Start engine let it warm up to 160, learn mode is “learning”. Then, the next time I cranked it, the idle went high and won't come down!" Often, folks will say, "I did everything you said. Hey, what you can access and control via the included 3.5-inch touchscreen display is very impressive. Now, in my lifetime of experience with Holley ECU's that seems unlikely, but this guy sounded really sharp and had nothing to gain by convincing me of his dilemma. I have certainly seen this before on other fuel injected vehicles when hot. If I were there in person I would test the function of the IAC (see this article.) Once you confirm the operation of your IAC then it's time to read my article on Solving RFI Problems. the gas it catches itself and runs fine at slower speeds. Note:  The IAC breather hole is the roughly 1/4-inch triangular hole that sits above and between the secondaries.
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